South America

The Facts About Plecostomus

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Hypostomus plecostomus are a part of the family Loricariidae. This is the largest family of catfish with close to 700 individual species and growing annually. The Greek translation of plecostomus, like most species names, can be broken down into two parts. Pleco means pleat as in a fold in fabric. Stoma is mouth. Combine the two and you have, folded mouth.

These fish are indigenous to Costa Rica, Panama, and South America. The plecostomus is actually a single of many species of armored catfish native to the tropical and subtropical zones of the western hemisphere. All of these fish are known as common algae eaters because of their dietary habits. Over the years, the species name plecostomus has become synonymous with these armor plated algae ingesting catfish. Aquarists around the world often use the nicknames plecos or plecs when referring to these creatures.

Plecos are one of the most easily recognizable and commonly owned aquarium fish on the planet. Their immense popularity is inarguably a result of their dietary habits. Their ease of recognition, however, should be only partially attributed to their near mandatory presence in a freshwater aquarium. Armored catfishes prehistoric origins set them apart from almost every other freshwater species in existence. Their appearance has remained virtually unchanged since they first swam the oceans long before dinosaurs roamed the face of the Earth. Owning a plecos is like having a living fossil in your aquarium.

One of the most readily distinguishable traits of algae eaters is their wide, suction-cup like mouths. This is a highly specialized feeding apparatus for what in essence is a bottom dwelling scavenger fish. In addition to its most obvious application, this suction mechanisms secondary function can best be demonstrated by watching a plecos cling seemingly effortlessly to the side of an aquarium. This same ability helps to keep these fish anchored securely in place in the most torrential floodwater run offs the rainy season has to offer. A plecos will emerge from even the most severe rainy season in the feeding grounds it has become accustomed to, where other less adaptable species have been swept countless miles downstream. Their distinctive and highly developed mouths have also won them the nickname, suckermouth.

If you go to buy any fish that is labeled Plecostomus, Plecos or Algae Eater make sure to take its estimated adult size into consideration. The actual species belonging to the name plecostomus can reach an excess of 2 feet in length. They routinely grow to a foot or more in the confines of an aquarium. The adult size of the various species sold under these blanket terms varies considerably. Some are as small as two inches when fully grown. Make sure to choose one that the size of your aquarium will accommodate.

Plecos make great community fish. A common trait among bottom feeding species is that they rarely pay any attention to the comings and goings of fish in the upper levels of an aquarium. This will remain true even when they are in the midst of cleaning the algae growth off the sides of your tank.

Younger plecos may be tolerant of each other but as they continue to grow in both age and size that tolerance usually proves short lived. There are very few bottom dwelling fish that will peacefully coexist with one another.

Loricariids are a nocturnal family. They are active at night and will instinctively seek out shelter to sleep in during the day. Providing your plecos with a place rest in during the day will help it acclimate to its new surroundings. While this is not strictly necessary, it is recommended. Plecos will rest on the substrate during the day in an unadorned aquarium.

Plecos are omnivores. In an aquarium, just as in nature, these catfish will consume just about anything. This is what scavenger fish do. Contrary to what you may believe, they derive the majority of their dietary intake from ingesting decomposing organic matter foraged off the aquarium substrate and not from the consumption of algae.

Plecos are one of the most self sufficient fish you can have in an aquarium. This is easy to take for granted. It is inadvisable to assume that foraging will provide your plecos with enough nutrients to keep it healthy and fit. This is especially true if you own a larger member of the plecos family.

Putting sinking wafers or pellets in your aquarium at night when the other fish are less active will help make sure your plecos dietary needs are being meant. Loricariids are not finicky eaters. They will eat the same vegetables humans do. They eat a wide variety of vegetables. Vegetables can be cooked or served raw, leafy like spinach or bulky like zucchini, broccoli, and cauliflower. Having driftwood in your aquarium is also recommended. Plecos love to nibble on drift wood. This would seem to indicate that wood provides a needed source of fiber.

Plecos are not known to spawn in captivity. Most species that do not breed in captivity are captured to support the thriving aquarium industry. This is typically not the case when it comes to plecos. Central and South America natives have turned the harvesting of plecos eggs into an industry all its own. The eggs are collected from drying streams and riverbeds and then sold to fish farms where they are hatched and raised for eventual resale. Many plecos sold in fish stores were harvested just this way.

Gold Severum Cichlids And The Shy Cichlid

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Gold severum cichlids are a native of South America. They are also known as Hero Cichlids or Banded Cichlids. They are of the larger types of cichlids and can grow up to 20cm in length.

Male and female gold severum cichlids basically have the same color although the females appear to be paler than the males. The only other difference in their color is that the females do not have the same pattern on their heads as the males.

Baby cichlids will have clearer patterns on their bodies. These patterns consist of 7 to 8 stripes on their bodies. By the time these baby cichlids mature, these patterns will not be as visible and may even reach a point where only some will be clearly visible.

To make these cichlids happy and lively, you will need to keep them in a big enough aquarium. To keep gold severum cichlids on a proper diet, make sure you feed them enough vegetables which means sticking to their natural diet as much as possible although this type of cichlid will eat almost anything.

These cichlids are generally mild-mannered and shy and will mix with active fishes of the same size and habits as itself. The water temperature that is right for the gold severum cichlid should be kept between 72F to 79F.

Although these cichlids are shy in nature, when it comes to breeding they are pretty aggressive and because of this nature, it is best to set up a separate tank especially for your breeding gold severum cichlids if you want to keep the rest of your cichlids safe. The initial breeding process will take some time though as these cichlids are known for being picky when it comes to choosing their breeding partners. Gold severum cichlid broods can be as large as containing 1000 eggs at each spawn.

Chinchilla Dust Bath How To Choose A Good One

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Chinchillas are originated in the mountains of South America. As a result of their natural surroundings, these petite animals have had to adapt to the Andes Mountains and learn how to clean their pelt without the resources many other animals have. A chinchilla in its natural habitat has to wash itself in the volcanic ash on the mountain. This is referred to as a dust bath. The chinchilla utilizes the dust bath to clean its fur. The ash enables this luxurious fur to stay clean and smooth. Many people believe that the chinchilla enjoys the dust bath also.

If you have never given your chinchilla a dust bath, you may be somewhat intimidated, but don’t be. A dust bath is essential to their care. Don’t succumb to the temptation to just put the chinchilla in water and clean it like a regular pet. Water harms the chinchilla’s fur. Your chinchilla’s coat includes natural oils which fulfill several purposes. The oils help the chinchilla to maintain their own body temperature and it protects their skin from irritation and injury. The dust bath without a doubt is the best way to help care for your chinchilla.

A quick trip to the pet store will yield you some chinchilla dust. This product is similar to the natural volcanic ash your chinchilla is accustomed to using to wash himself. Do not use sand or powder designed for humans. Even if you think they feel the same to you, they will not be as effective. The ash the chinchilla uses in its natural habitat has special properties, and it will step down into the chinchilla fur. This dust will penetrate into their skin and help clean and maintain the health of your chinchilla.

You will need a deep bowl or container to pour the chinchilla dust in. Choose something that your chinchilla will be prevented from tipping over once inside. If you are worried about protecting your home from the chinchilla dust, then employ an enclosed container. A canister with a wide opening or an aquarium would work for this purpose.

Your chinchilla requires a couple inches of dust in which to take their bath. As an alternative, you can shake the couple inches of dust into the chinchilla’s cage when it’s bedtime. Chinchillas are active during the night, so they will bathe themselves in the dust at night. It isn’t necessary to change out the dust once a day. Leaving the dust for a few days in a row is acceptable, as long as the cage is the home of only your chinchilla. If the dust commences to look dirty or you see clumps in it, then you must sweep it out. You cannot add a batch of dust into the cage and just leave it there forever. You will need to change out the dust.

The chinchilla dust should not be in the cage on a continual basis anyway. Chinchillas in the wild do not spend all of their time dust bathing. Think about it; do you remain in the bath around the clock? Continual exposure to the dust could be harmful. (It may get into their eyes and create an infection.) Additionally, you do not want your chinchilla making use of the dust like a cat uses its litter box. So be certain that you leave the dust up to a few days and then change it.

Your chinchilla only needs a dust bath bi-weekly. It is easiest to put the dust in there at bedtime and let the chinchilla take care of this bath. If you see that his fur is looking oily or wet, then you can give him a dust bath. When the weather becomes humid, you should increase the amount of dust baths per week. If you inhabit a dry climate with your chinchilla, you can reduce the amount of dust baths he gets. If your chinchilla’s fur becomes flaky, his skin is dry, or he appears to be scratching, then cut down on the dust baths. You aren’t required to leave the dust in the cage for twenty-four hours. Fifteen minutes is actually an adequate amount of time for your chinchilla to clean himself.

Chinchillas are fun to observe and dust-bath time is an opportunity to observe them that you don’t want to miss. If you desire to watch this marvelous creature during his dust bath, use a glass container for the dust bath so you can see. A plastic container is not a good choice as the claws of the chinchilla will scratch the plastic, and the scratches will impair your view.

Piranha Aquarium Guide

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BASIC PIRANHA FACTS

Piranhas have red throats, razor-sharp teeth to rip flesh with ease, and silvery gold flesh (red-bellies have red bellies, of course). Piranhas are native to South America and Guyana and it’s against the law to bring them in and out of most countries. They are quite dangerous and aggressive fish since they reside in schools, which has a tendency to promote a competitive environment.

When planning a piranha aquarium, fish size should be regarded first. Grown piranhas have been known to develop to two feet long in a big enough tank. Piranhas are in addition group swimmers, which means they’ll need room to roam. Strive to provide two gallons per each inch of piranha fish. An aquarium six feet long by two feet by two should allow ample hideouts. A minimum fifty-gallon aquarium is recommended.

TANK UPKEEP AND CONDITIONS

Piranhas (Serrasalmus nattereri) are very sloppy eaters. Ten to fifteen percent water switch-outs every seven days will ensure waste not trapped by the filter system is taken away. Regarding filter systems, almost all piranha aquariums will need at least two devices to manage the process, especially if the aquarium is fifty or more gallons. Nitrate concentrations, which have harmful effects on piranhas particularly, should be monitored directly. PH levels ought to stay between six and one half and 6.9 to copy those of the Amazon where piranhas came from.

Water degrees in a piranha enclosure should be about eighty degrees to encourage piranha movements. Many piranha owners employ additional water pump devices to prod piranhas to swim in opposition to the waves as in the River of the Amazon. The practice additionally promotes metabolism levels, stimulating eating habits.

For decoration, it’s preferable to keep the fish tank low lighted to encourage piranhas to venture into open water. Man-made fauna is recommended. Any rocks and synthetic centerpieces will need to be tightly fastened, seeing as strong piranhas will hurl pieces around, potentially breaking glass.

DIET

Piranhas’ diet consists completely of proteins. Living meaty rations such as non-fatty poultry or beef and fillets of fish may be administered daily or bidaily. Feeder comet fish are a non-expensive choice, but piranhas will dine on practically any variety of meat. Experiment to find what yours favor. Whatever you do, don’t leave your fingers in the water too long!

TANK MATES

Obviously piranhas are aggressive fish, which makes your choice of tank mates relatively slim. However, some other aggressive fish can co-exist with them. For example, tetras, cichlids, oscars, pleco catfish and pacus. These fish are by and large excellent defensive fish, while the plecos have tough outer shells and can grow to larger, intimidating sizes. Pacus resemble piranhas and will fight back. Tetras are quick and small with sensory instincts which allow them to stay clear of piranhas. Piranhas also aren’t likely to give chase to such speedy, small cohabitants. Cichlids may or may not coexist with piranhas; they have simply been known to team up against them to survive. Oscars are large and in charge and inexpensive to replace if they’re slurped by a fat red-belly.

As a rule of thumb, don’t introduce too many new experimental tank mates into your piranha tank. Add them one by one to see how they adapt. Whatever you do, don’t get too attached to them until you know they’re going to make it!

SUMMARY

We hope you’ve benefited from this informational piece regarding piranhas. Feel free to visit AquariumUniverse.com for more piranha aquarium information including photos and videos, additional guides and aquarium resources.